“Burn of plugs and cab settings (comprehensive)” Redifying “”
This is the last part of the plug burn and the cab setting.
The first is the inspection and preparation of the carburetor.
In my case, there is also a meaning to prevent secondary air on the side of the cab, mani, and head
Use not only gaskets but also liquid gas if possible.
The cab setting starts from the big start of the MJ.
Needle is finally set and do not mess around on the way.
Set the AS to the predetermined position. (Depending on the manufacturer, 1-11/2 rotation)
Start the engine and set the idling high, warm enough before opening the AS.
Find the position where the idling is the highest.
The AS will be returned from 1/8 to 1/4 rotations from the highest position.
If the idling is stable, it is OK, but the engine stops when it is unstable or exposed.
If you do, adjust the AS or change the SJ.
After adjusting the idling to the appropriate position, see the axle from 1/2 to 2/3.
At this time, if the fire or rotation is slow, the SJ number is increased by one.
If the rotation is unstable, fine -tune the AS and adjust the response of the axle to a good position.
Yoshimura’s TM is quite severe, so it usually adjusts with about 1/4 rotations.
In the case of Yoshimura, it will be the adjustment adjustment of 1/8 to 1/16.
If the rotation returns poorly, there is a possibility of secondary air, so the idling is slightly higher.
Head, mani, cab, so that you do not enter the parts cleaner into the carburetor.
Let’s go to the joints.
If the engine stops or the rotation changes, it absorbs the secondary air.
Check the seams again and take measures with gasket replacement or liquid gas.
If the idling, Axle Aori up to 1/2 place is OK, it will enter actual driving.
At this time, we will set the MJ without playing with the needle yet.
Try running up to 1-4 speed.
Turn it to the red zone while covering with axle work for the mid -speed range.
If the situation is in a high -speed range, if you have a breathing, a stuff, or not to go up to the top, the plug
Look at the burnt color.
The burnt color of the plug is 2-3 times, and after the 3-4-speed 코인카지노 opening, a kill switch
Stop the engine and clutch and hit the plug by the edge.
In short, you don’t use idling or engine brakes because you see the burns at the time of fully open.
I’ll do it.
If the plug is a bit of a fluffy, make the MJ smaller.
At first it starts with a large MJ, so setting with a pattern that makes it almost small.
However, there are rare opposite, so please look closely at the plug.
I started after MJ was decided because the repetition of this work became better.
Touch the needle.
If there is breathing or mottled in the medium speed range, most are often thin, so needle
Let’s lower the clip position.
Once the total setting is decided, open up to 4th speed with zero start acceleration
Do the final inspection of the plug.
If it’s OK, the setting is over.
If the plug is burnt, give MJ reset or plug it.
Take measures such as watching.
Please refer to this table. (It’s a pakuri …)
When the throttle is open, breathe, knocking, and overheat.
Major MJ because the fuel is thin.
When the throttle opens is fully opened, the peak, bokotsu, and lack of power.
Because the fuel is dark, make the MJ smaller.
Throttle opening 1/2 to fully open, breathing, knocking, and stalling.
Major MJ because the fuel is thin.
Throttle opening 1/2 to fully open, paddy, blurry, poor acceleration.
Because the fuel is dark, make the MJ smaller.
Throttle opening 1/8 to 1/2:00, breathing, knocking, stalling.
Because the fuel is thin, the PJ is large or the AS is tightened.
Throttle opening 1/8-12: 00, paste, blurry, poor acceleration.
Because the fuel is dark, the PJ is small or the AS is loosened.
Idling rotation is unstable (hunting).
Because the fuel is thin, the PJ is large or the AS is tightened.
When idling, black smoke comes out, sound is dull, and after a while, stall.
Because the fuel is dark, the PJ is small or the AS is loosened.
When it closes rapidly, the after -fire engine rotation is not returned.
Because the fuel is thin, the PJ is large or the AS is tightened.
There are people who often listen to the appropriate MJ or SJ on a bulletin board or blog, etc.
Engine specifications, mufflers, types of jerks, size, funnel or power
The contents of the set differ completely depending on the filter.
It is good to start from the basic large MJ.
Conversely, if you change the set such as a muffler, the setting will change again.
In my case, the valve timing is also changed, so the setting is
It changes.
In particular, things that are called lace kiyabu such as FCR are quite severe settings.
When the temperature difference between day and night is severe, even if you set it in the daytime, it will change at night.
It is often the more severe setting.
It can’t be helped because it’s the basic lace kiyabu (laughs)
The setting of the carburetor naturally changes depending on the changes in the season, weather, temperature, etc.
It is something to go.
It’s a little annoying, but frequent setting and maintenance for the engine
It is recommended.
When setting, make a detailed note of the notebook etc. on the spot.
It is recommended.
This is useful as later data, so it is highly recommended.
For those who are coming to see my blog, please refer to it.
I think it will be.
I’m an amateur, so I think there are wrong expressions and words, but with generous eyes
Please have a look at this.
When setting, please do it at your own risk.
Thank you for reading to the end.
I hope it will be helpful.
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